Summer Wrap-Up

   It's been a while since I have had some time to sit down and write. Sometimes life gets busy but oh well. So what has been happening? Not too much but there has been some sending going on. I was able to get in a few days between all the weather we've been having.  When fall arrived it brought with it plenty of rain (rain is kind of a theme here in the southeast).
  So since I don't have much new recent news to write about I figured, with winter sneaking up and my finger letting me know its time for a bit of a break, I'd write a recap of all the new stuff that has gone up.
   Climbing season started up here in April. Most of the winter is too wet and cold to climb much. We did make it out a little before but it was brutally cold. On those days we would try to warm up and end up just sitting in the small bit of sun in the woods and drink tea. But April is where it's at. It was still cold enough for everything to feel sticky yet warm enough to function. I always get really excited during this time of the year and this year I was especially excited.

An attempt on Burden of Hospitality from 2010

   I had missed the year before due to mine and Janelle's climbing trip down south (we were gone for 6 months, I'll write some more about this later). While we were traveling I always had my roof project in the back of my mind. After gaining more experience and knowledge, I knew that this could be the year that I would finally do the Burden Of Hospitality (V12) and indeed it was. I can't say how many days I've spent under this thing or how many times I've found it wet and unclimbable. It was found by local climber Paul Disdier in 2009. It held my attention for all these years. The beta is complex and my own method changed several times. Sending this problem was a big step in my own person climbing progression and kicked of the Juneau climbing season with a bang. Here is a video of a near send. Unfortunately when I did send the camera died as soon as I pulled off the ground.


   There were also several new moderates to go up at Tee Harbor as well. Janelle did her first FA of a problem located behind the Waters Boulder she named Diebuldge. It starts with a steep intro into a traversing slab on some nice gritty slopers.  In the same area I also added a new problem named Muad-Dib, a technical face climb located right next to the arete project.
   At Fred Meyer there was also a flurry of development and cleaning. It had been a while since I devoted some time to actually scrubbing new climbs but I was able to get the brush out a bit. Most recently I sent a long standing project that I wrote about in the Stealing days post. It took a long time to settle on a name, but all I needed to do was look at a brotha lynch album and I found it. Devils and Gun Smoke (V9). The day that I did this problem I also sent another long standing project I decided to call Little Big Roof (V?). It's a small roof located next to the Lair. The movement has always been a bit of an enigma. Finally this year I was able to utilize some non-holds to figure out a solution.

The Rail Project now know as "Devils and Gun Smoke"

    Even though there were plenty of successes, there were also some disappointments. Falling off the top of the crown project was one of them. Looking back on that day, I really should have given it another go. I rested plenty and only missed the last move by a bit. Knowing that I could have sent it on that skipped attempt will bother me all winter. One other problem that got away is the fish creek project. I'm thinking it's a lot harder than anything in Juneau that's been sent. It's steep, sharp and crimpy; it's going to haunt a few dreams too.

The Fish Creek Project

   All in all this summer was great. Although I only mentioned a few routes there were a lot more that got climbed and many more projects that were found and cleaned. After missing last summer, all the climbing and exploring got me more stoked than ever for the exploration and adventure involved with climbing in Juneau. While it seemed like we're getting these areas pretty well established, all the exploring reminds me that there are things next to the classics that are still waiting for their time in the spotlight...
   So with the summer done and climbing here in Juneau more or less on hold till spring "what am I going to do with this blog?" you may ask? Im going to focus on my training for a trip to Hueco in december. My intention is to document my training efforts. As I mention in my first post I am really interested in the science and techniques being developed for rock climbing. I will post videos and review some products that I will be using. Stay tuned and join me on my journey to Hueco and hopefully some sends! Until then here is the long awaited video footage from mine and Janelle's climbing trip down south. The video is muted but thats okay because some of the music I chose I am no longer keen on. Anyways enjoy!!!

A Good Weekend

   Last weekend the sun came out and the rock became dry, so Janelle and I decided to take full advantage. Saturday we went to Tee Harbor and met up with Tyler and Brandon, two local climbers who have also done a fair bit of development around town.
   Once we set to climbing, the warm up boulder became our focus. It is full of different routes ranging from V0 up to V9. Janelle set her efforts on the Undgercling Thing, a really nice two mover that revolves around a moon kick up to a flat ledge. Tyler and Brandon worked on Dingleberry, a route that is listed as a project in the Alaska Bouldering Guide but I was able to finish it up earlier this summer. For myself, it seemed like that gravity was turned up. I was able to repeat a few things, but it was not my day. While it was a fine day, Sunday is what I was really excited for!

Tyler working Dingleberry

    On Sunday we made the trip up to Fish Creek Knob. This area was found a few years ago by Paul, a local developer, via google maps. It's a talus field under a peak located near the local ski area. In order to get there you have to travel up a hunter's trail for about an hour before arriving in a large meadow full of small ponds and meandering creeks. Between the view of the Mendenhall Towers, surrounding peaks, and the rock, it is surely one of the most beautiful and pristine climbing areas in Juneau.

Our dog, Digger, enjoying the view

   Upon arrival to the boulders sits Welcome To Paradise, the most developed boulder in the area. There are problems ranging from V0-V6 and a traverse that remains unclimbed. After the hike, it is a fine place to relax, eat and start your climbing day.

Janelle climbing the Paradise Arete

Myself on Welcome To Paradise with a close up of the lovely Texture of the rock up there.

   Deeper in the field sits the Black Slab which features one of the coolest holds in all of Fish Creek. The Rock itself is some what featureless aside from the dike in the middle of the face. The whole crew, Tyler, Shannon, Janelle and myself did the problem. Though Shannon showed her slap mastery making it look like a leisurely stroll.

Shannon Sending the Black Slab

    At the end of the day, with the sun lowering, we headed over to the Fish Creek Project. I tried this thing a few years ago and have been excited to give it more effort. The line goes straight up an overhanging face on crimps and slopers. After the first day trying it I knew it was going to hard. After the second day trying it I KNOW it's really hard.

Tyler working the opening move

Myself trying the dyno

Same move another angle

   The whole problem can be sumed up with small left handed crimps, right handed slopers and big moves. The business starts right off the ground. You grab a very small left handed crimp then readjust the feet and do a big move to a sloper. Of all moves, I have only done the first and the finish after the hard dyno. It is one of my goals for the summer to complete all the moves on this rig, but unless we get more sunny days, I fear I will not. But this isn't necessarily a bad thing. It just gives me another climb to work for.

The opening crimp

Its a bout a quarter pad....

   I can't wait to get back up there. The scenery alone makes it worth the hike. Sometimes I find it difficult to motivate myself for a long approach when there is so much available with just a short walk, but it is always worth it when I actually put in the small effort. An approach is part of the experience and to deny yourself just because of laziness is no excuse. After such a great day in the mountains my motivation to hike a little bit further has been renewed because who knows what you'll find!

Making The Best

   Thanks to all the cleaning over the past few weeks the boulder fields are looking more dense then ever. It seems as though with every new line that gets cleaned two more appear under the roots, moss and dirt. Lately, the Fred Meyer Boulders have been the area with the most to offer.
   In past summers I have devoted most of my time to developing the boulders at Tee Harbor. Unfortunately, after finishing my long term project, Burden of Hospitality (I will write more about that later), my interest in the area has waned. Don't get me wrong, Tee Harbor is a prime area but a little change in scenery was needed.

Burden Of Hospitality, Juneau's New Hardest Problem

   This summer the bulk of our outdoor excursions have been to either East Glacier, home to our lovely grey, glacial polished, granite erratics or Fred Meyers, home to the best highballs around. It's been rejuvenating to say the least. When you live in an area as isolated as Juneau, it is easy to get bored and feel as though you see the same thing everyday. Sometimes you just have to remind yourself to go somewhere else. Lucky enough, we have several great areas to visit.

Janelle Climbing the Dyke Problem

    East Glacier is home to some of the best rock in town. The granite reminds me of the foot on Midnight Lightning. Most of the texture was rubbed away by the glacier leaving some slick relatively featureless boulders. Where there is texture, it's amazing! Tacky yet satisfying. There are dozens of problems ranging from V1 up to V11 with several projects scattered around. Personally, I have two projects that have received the majority of my attention: the sit starts to Beak & Claw and Crooked Crow.
    The sit start to Beak & Claw has been a project for a few years now. A line that moves up slopey rails to a technical mantel over the lip. I have done all the moves except for one. It's very subtle and condition dependent. Most likely it will have to wait for cool fall conditions. In the rain forest during the summer it is rare to have cool temps and low humidity; especially during a summer that has rained as much as this year.

"The Move"

   Lost Rock is home to the next project. Located in the woods on the right side of Glacier Spur Rd about 1/2-3/4 mile past the intersection with Mendenhall Loop Rd, this boulder is home to several superb problems including the slab dyno Massive Dynamic. The problem that has peaked my interest is the sit start to a problem I established this year called Crooked Crow. While the top moves are fairly straight forward using underclings and heel hooks, the sit is some of the most difficult compression I have ever tried. There is just enough texture to hold each position, but despite my efforts, I don't have either the strength or vision to move between them. Hopefully as my knowledge of training and the efficacy of my efforts increase, so will my understanding of this problem.

There it lies in all it's glory, Crooked Crow

   In the past weeks our efforts have been at Freddy's (Fred Meyer Boulders). After all the cleaning from the past blog post, we were able to take advantage of a break in the weather and establish a few new problems. Polinko in particular is really fun!


   As summer creeps to its end, we're doing our best to take advantage of any and all the climbable weather we get. It's looking like we are going to have a few more climbing days this week, so stay tuned for more news from Juneau. Till then, Train Hard & Climb Harder!

Productive Rest

   So I sure picked a good week to take some rest. The sun has been out  and the boulder have been dry. But despite my training schedule yesterday and today ended up being really productive! I headed out to Fred Meyers and decided to do my self some cleaning.
   The first bloc I headed to was one that I cleaned a few weeks ago but needed a little more work.  There was a branch hanging over the lip. I gave that the chop and then made sure the trail was nice and devils club free. Once done there I headed up to the lair. The scene was not good my friends... A nice big tree fell onto our landing. I cleaned out as much as possible but to get the whole thing out of there we're going to need a crew. If anyone is interested let me know! Well aside from that I got some lines  under the big slab cleaned up that should be cool. They look like they'll have some fun moderate climbing up to a committing lip encounter.

There's two lines that stand out. A low sit start to some slopers and a quality line heading out the roof to some crimps and a proper top out!

See? Its bigger then one man can move

   Next I headed over to a boulder that I have looked at for a long time. I never found myself ready to clean this thing but yesterday was the day. Its funny because when I finally set to getting it clean it was not time at all. Within 10 minutes the top was cleared of mud and moss. This boulder may end up being more of a project before its a climb. Compression will be the name of the game. The left side is fairly positive but the left side is pretty nasty. Aside for the obvious line it appears that there may be something else to right in the dihedral but it will take a little imagination to figure out.

The compression project!

Its steep!

   Another Great future problem that is now going to be possible is the Twin Beaks. Today Janelle and I headed back up to Freddy's to finish cleaning a problem I started like 2 years ago. Yeah it took a while but done now. Its a nice little roof on the way to the Gandolf boulder. At one time I sorted out the beta but was unable to finish due to a lack landscaping. But like the others  its now clean and ready to go thanks to some help from my lovely fiance Janelle.

Janelle feeling out the holds of Twin Beaks

   I'm really excited to get out there and try some of these new problems. They look like they will be some fine additions to the area. Now we wait for a little rain to finish the cleaning, a little chalk and we have some new problems. As soon as my rest cycle is over you better believe Im gonna get out there and give these things a few burns! Its looking like next week we have some sun in the forecast. Im excited to climb. Hope your able to get out and grab some stone too, till then train hard and climb harder!

Stealing Days

   Well guess what? Give up? IT'S BEEN RAINING!!!! A lot. I've also been taking advantage of the rainy days by training at home. Since Janelle and I built a wall in our living room, we've had the ability to climb with specific goals for each workout. We also have rings, a sling trainer and a hangboard. The hangboard in particular has become increasingly utilized. Before recently I didn't use one but as of late it has been proving its place in my training schedule. As with many climbers, I've always felt that my biggest weaknesses are my fingers and core. While hanging is super boring, it's ideal for targeting finger strength, and once the gains became apparent, my motivation has soared.

The Beastmaker and some motivation...

   Training aside we've had a few days to get outside. For Janelle and I, the count is two days in the past 20 days... Yeah. They have been productive though. One day we made it out to Freddy's. After warming up Janelle and I both got to work on our projects. Janelle set to work on Huggy Bear. A quality line on the Lookout Boulder. It went well and she made a ton of progress. Perhaps it will go next visit?

Janelle Working through Huggy Bear

    While Janelle worked on Huggy Bear, I set my sights on the Rail Project. A sit start to Huggy Bear that is perhaps the longest standing project at Freddy's. I first tried this problem my first summer in Juneau seven years ago, and it had been tried for years before that by several other local climbers. When I first tried it I couldn't envision the moves but after such a long time away it finally made sense and I was able to link the problem in two parts. It isreally cool to see these old projects come to fruition and change from a vague line of holds into a boulder problem.

An early attempt sorting out beta

The crux

   On our next day out we went out to one of our favorite but rarely visited areas: Granite Creek. To get there you travel up the Perseverance Trail Head located at the top of basin road. After about 2 miles you get to the beginning of the Granite Creek trail which takes you to the base of Mt.Olds. In this top basin is the house boulder. So far there are only a few established lines on it. My objective was the Crown Project, a beautiful sustained compression problem up the steepest face of the boulder.

Mt.Olds and the House Boulder

   After the 3 hour hike we were all pretty tired. We hung out enjoyed the sun, salmon and cheese and  then I was set to work. On all of my previous visits up there I could not figure out how to get out of the overhang, but after a few attempts I figured out how to finally get over the lip. Now even though I had some beta figured out, it's still not a done deal. The Crown is one of those boulders that you can only try so many times before you're worked. Add that to the brutal approach and you... don't send. Ha, oh well, it's up there for another day. 

The redpoint crux. 

Too High To Fail? I think not

 
   Hopefully with the arrival of July will come some more dry weather. Till next time Train Hard and Send Harder! Cheers

Rest, Rain & Work

   This past week has been a busy one. Dylan, a local climber, and myself ran the first of what will be an annual climbing summer camp through the Zach Gordon Youth Center. We had 8 excited boys from age 8-13. It was an awesome opportunity for these kids to experience rock climbing outside of the occasional birthday party at the climbing gym.
   We started the week with an introductory day at the Zach. Here in Southeast Alaska, rain tends to be the norm and the first day's weather was no exception but it worked out for the best.  Having an indoor wall made for an effective way for these kids to get comfortable climbing on a rope and trusting the equipment.  Once we got these kids familiar and prepared, it was full steam ahead.
   For the next three days we were lucky enough to have a break in the rain and we headed out to the rock. Day one we went out to the Sea Cliffs. It's one of the only sport climbing crags in Juneau, and offers climbs from 5.6 up to 5.12. The scenery there is amazing, and in our short visit we saw two humpback whales and a curious seal.

Dylan and the Kids.

One of the kids high on a route at the Sea Cliffs

   The following days we went bouldering at the Tee Harbor and Fred Meyer Boulders. Kids were crushing! Everyone topped something out and had smiles on their faces. While at Tee Harbor, I demonstrated some boulders hoping to get the kids stoked. I climbed up the classic All Your Waters and attempted a repeat of The Donkey Show. Donkey Show is an odd problem, it is very short and very low percentage. I established it around 2010, have only done it twice, and I most certainly have tried it much more than that! Despite my efforts, I failed on this repeat but I think it's good for the kids to see that. No matter how much you climb, you always fall and that's okay. 

   On our last day the rain returned, but it was alright because after several hard days on the rock we were ready for a break. We set off to the swimming pool to use the latest addition, a Climbing Wall!!!!!!! It is gently overhanging and a ton of fun, and I couldn't think of a better way to end a summer climbing camp.

   As for my own climbing, it has been limited. I just read a new training book that has outlined a training cycle that myself and my fiance are going to try. I really like that it has defined the points where you should be peaking which is something that I have lacked in the past but is very important to the AK boulderer. We only take a limited amount of trips a year and it will be nice to know that we are going during the peak of our training efforts. 

    Well any ways I have been resting but am now back on the horse. Here's a nice clip of myself actually climbing The Donkey Show just before I took my rest. Hope you enjoy and that we don't get too much rain so I have some more to share next week!

Finally!

    It's been a long time since someone has written a post about the bouldering here in little ol' Juneau Alaska. This blog is here to share the latest climbing news in our little town. Hope you enjoy and hopefully this will help anyone visiting to know that they should bring their rock shoes.
   So whats happening right now? Lots! In the past 7 years there has been an explosion of development on the local blocs. Around town there are two primary rock types:

Tuff

Dylan Miller Climbing Love not Lost at Freddys

and Granite

The Author's hand on Special Sandwich.
A problem located on one of the many glacial erratics of the East Glacier Trail.

   Along with the different kinds of rock we have we also have different environments ranging from dark, dank temperate rain forests to alpine meadows that are only accessible for a 2 or 3 months a year. 

Myself on the Crown Project up in Granite Creek

   We also have a nice spectrum of grades from v1 to v12 and some pretty lofty projects. Please note while the climbers in town get out and travel to different areas we are isolated and grades are always just an estimate and it doesn't matter anyways!!!!

   This is just an overview of what our little town has to offer. As time goes on I intend to update with recent information and upcoming events at our local gym. Please feel free to contact me if you're visiting. We are always happy to share what rock we have. For your stoke here is a video of a traverse that I established this season called the Epoch Traverse. Its located at the Tee Harbor Boulders on the Warm-up boulder. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more!