Monday, August 11, 2014

A Good Weekend

   Last weekend the sun came out and the rock became dry, so Janelle and I decided to take full advantage. Saturday we went to Tee Harbor and met up with Tyler and Brandon, two local climbers who have also done a fair bit of development around town.
   Once we set to climbing, the warm up boulder became our focus. It is full of different routes ranging from V0 up to V9. Janelle set her efforts on the Undgercling Thing, a really nice two mover that revolves around a moon kick up to a flat ledge. Tyler and Brandon worked on Dingleberry, a route that is listed as a project in the Alaska Bouldering Guide but I was able to finish it up earlier this summer. For myself, it seemed like that gravity was turned up. I was able to repeat a few things, but it was not my day. While it was a fine day, Sunday is what I was really excited for!
Tyler working Dingleberry
    On Sunday we made the trip up to Fish Creek Knob. This area was found a few years ago by Paul, a local developer, via google maps. It's a talus field under a peak located near the local ski area. In order to get there you have to travel up a hunter's trail for about an hour before arriving in a large meadow full of small ponds and meandering creeks. Between the view of the Mendenhall Towers, surrounding peaks, and the rock, it is surely one of the most beautiful and pristine climbing areas in Juneau.
Our dog, Digger, enjoying the view

   Upon arrival to the boulders sits Welcome To Paradise, the most developed boulder in the area. There are problems ranging from V0-V6 and a traverse that remains unclimbed. After the hike, it is a fine place to relax, eat and start your climbing day.

Janelle climbing the Paradise Arete

Myself on Welcome To Paradise with a close up of the lovely Texture of the rock up there.
   Deeper in the field sits the Black Slab which features one of the coolest holds in all of Fish Creek. The Rock itself is some what featureless aside from the dike in the middle of the face. The whole crew, Tyler, Shannon, Janelle and myself did the problem. Though Shannon showed her slap mastery making it look like a leisurely stroll.
Shannon Sending the Black Slab
    At the end of the day, with the sun lowering, we headed over to the Fish Creek Project. I tried this thing a few years ago and have been excited to give it more effort. The line goes straight up an overhanging face on crimps and slopers. After the first day trying it I knew it was going to hard. After the second day trying it I KNOW it's really hard.

Tyler working the opening move
Myself trying the dyno
Same move another angle
   The whole problem can be sumed up with small left handed crimps, right handed slopers and big moves. The business starts right off the ground. You grab a very small left handed crimp then readjust the feet and do a big move to a sloper. Of all moves, I have only done the first and the finish after the hard dyno. It is one of my goals for the summer to complete all the moves on this rig, but unless we get more sunny days, I fear I will not. But this isn't necessarily a bad thing. It just gives me another climb to work for.

The opening crimp
Its a bout a quarter pad....
   I can't wait to get back up there. The scenery alone makes it worth the hike. Sometimes I find it difficult to motivate myself for a long approach when there is so much available with just a short walk, but it is always worth it when I actually put in the small effort. An approach is part of the experience and to deny yourself just because of laziness is no excuse. After such a great day in the mountains my motivation to hike a little bit further has been renewed because who knows what you'll find!

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