Summer Wrap-Up

   It's been a while since I have had some time to sit down and write. Sometimes life gets busy but oh well. So what has been happening? Not too much but there has been some sending going on. I was able to get in a few days between all the weather we've been having.  When fall arrived it brought with it plenty of rain (rain is kind of a theme here in the southeast).
  So since I don't have much new recent news to write about I figured, with winter sneaking up and my finger letting me know its time for a bit of a break, I'd write a recap of all the new stuff that has gone up.
   Climbing season started up here in April. Most of the winter is too wet and cold to climb much. We did make it out a little before but it was brutally cold. On those days we would try to warm up and end up just sitting in the small bit of sun in the woods and drink tea. But April is where it's at. It was still cold enough for everything to feel sticky yet warm enough to function. I always get really excited during this time of the year and this year I was especially excited.

An attempt on Burden of Hospitality from 2010

   I had missed the year before due to mine and Janelle's climbing trip down south (we were gone for 6 months, I'll write some more about this later). While we were traveling I always had my roof project in the back of my mind. After gaining more experience and knowledge, I knew that this could be the year that I would finally do the Burden Of Hospitality (V12) and indeed it was. I can't say how many days I've spent under this thing or how many times I've found it wet and unclimbable. It was found by local climber Paul Disdier in 2009. It held my attention for all these years. The beta is complex and my own method changed several times. Sending this problem was a big step in my own person climbing progression and kicked of the Juneau climbing season with a bang. Here is a video of a near send. Unfortunately when I did send the camera died as soon as I pulled off the ground.


   There were also several new moderates to go up at Tee Harbor as well. Janelle did her first FA of a problem located behind the Waters Boulder she named Diebuldge. It starts with a steep intro into a traversing slab on some nice gritty slopers.  In the same area I also added a new problem named Muad-Dib, a technical face climb located right next to the arete project.
   At Fred Meyer there was also a flurry of development and cleaning. It had been a while since I devoted some time to actually scrubbing new climbs but I was able to get the brush out a bit. Most recently I sent a long standing project that I wrote about in the Stealing days post. It took a long time to settle on a name, but all I needed to do was look at a brotha lynch album and I found it. Devils and Gun Smoke (V9). The day that I did this problem I also sent another long standing project I decided to call Little Big Roof (V?). It's a small roof located next to the Lair. The movement has always been a bit of an enigma. Finally this year I was able to utilize some non-holds to figure out a solution.

The Rail Project now know as "Devils and Gun Smoke"

    Even though there were plenty of successes, there were also some disappointments. Falling off the top of the crown project was one of them. Looking back on that day, I really should have given it another go. I rested plenty and only missed the last move by a bit. Knowing that I could have sent it on that skipped attempt will bother me all winter. One other problem that got away is the fish creek project. I'm thinking it's a lot harder than anything in Juneau that's been sent. It's steep, sharp and crimpy; it's going to haunt a few dreams too.

The Fish Creek Project

   All in all this summer was great. Although I only mentioned a few routes there were a lot more that got climbed and many more projects that were found and cleaned. After missing last summer, all the climbing and exploring got me more stoked than ever for the exploration and adventure involved with climbing in Juneau. While it seemed like we're getting these areas pretty well established, all the exploring reminds me that there are things next to the classics that are still waiting for their time in the spotlight...
   So with the summer done and climbing here in Juneau more or less on hold till spring "what am I going to do with this blog?" you may ask? Im going to focus on my training for a trip to Hueco in december. My intention is to document my training efforts. As I mention in my first post I am really interested in the science and techniques being developed for rock climbing. I will post videos and review some products that I will be using. Stay tuned and join me on my journey to Hueco and hopefully some sends! Until then here is the long awaited video footage from mine and Janelle's climbing trip down south. The video is muted but thats okay because some of the music I chose I am no longer keen on. Anyways enjoy!!!