Rest, Rain & Work

   This past week has been a busy one. Dylan, a local climber, and myself ran the first of what will be an annual climbing summer camp through the Zach Gordon Youth Center. We had 8 excited boys from age 8-13. It was an awesome opportunity for these kids to experience rock climbing outside of the occasional birthday party at the climbing gym.
   We started the week with an introductory day at the Zach. Here in Southeast Alaska, rain tends to be the norm and the first day's weather was no exception but it worked out for the best.  Having an indoor wall made for an effective way for these kids to get comfortable climbing on a rope and trusting the equipment.  Once we got these kids familiar and prepared, it was full steam ahead.
   For the next three days we were lucky enough to have a break in the rain and we headed out to the rock. Day one we went out to the Sea Cliffs. It's one of the only sport climbing crags in Juneau, and offers climbs from 5.6 up to 5.12. The scenery there is amazing, and in our short visit we saw two humpback whales and a curious seal.

Dylan and the Kids.

One of the kids high on a route at the Sea Cliffs

   The following days we went bouldering at the Tee Harbor and Fred Meyer Boulders. Kids were crushing! Everyone topped something out and had smiles on their faces. While at Tee Harbor, I demonstrated some boulders hoping to get the kids stoked. I climbed up the classic All Your Waters and attempted a repeat of The Donkey Show. Donkey Show is an odd problem, it is very short and very low percentage. I established it around 2010, have only done it twice, and I most certainly have tried it much more than that! Despite my efforts, I failed on this repeat but I think it's good for the kids to see that. No matter how much you climb, you always fall and that's okay. 

   On our last day the rain returned, but it was alright because after several hard days on the rock we were ready for a break. We set off to the swimming pool to use the latest addition, a Climbing Wall!!!!!!! It is gently overhanging and a ton of fun, and I couldn't think of a better way to end a summer climbing camp.

   As for my own climbing, it has been limited. I just read a new training book that has outlined a training cycle that myself and my fiance are going to try. I really like that it has defined the points where you should be peaking which is something that I have lacked in the past but is very important to the AK boulderer. We only take a limited amount of trips a year and it will be nice to know that we are going during the peak of our training efforts. 

    Well any ways I have been resting but am now back on the horse. Here's a nice clip of myself actually climbing The Donkey Show just before I took my rest. Hope you enjoy and that we don't get too much rain so I have some more to share next week!

Finally!

    It's been a long time since someone has written a post about the bouldering here in little ol' Juneau Alaska. This blog is here to share the latest climbing news in our little town. Hope you enjoy and hopefully this will help anyone visiting to know that they should bring their rock shoes.
   So whats happening right now? Lots! In the past 7 years there has been an explosion of development on the local blocs. Around town there are two primary rock types:

Tuff

Dylan Miller Climbing Love not Lost at Freddys

and Granite

The Author's hand on Special Sandwich.
A problem located on one of the many glacial erratics of the East Glacier Trail.

   Along with the different kinds of rock we have we also have different environments ranging from dark, dank temperate rain forests to alpine meadows that are only accessible for a 2 or 3 months a year. 

Myself on the Crown Project up in Granite Creek

   We also have a nice spectrum of grades from v1 to v12 and some pretty lofty projects. Please note while the climbers in town get out and travel to different areas we are isolated and grades are always just an estimate and it doesn't matter anyways!!!!

   This is just an overview of what our little town has to offer. As time goes on I intend to update with recent information and upcoming events at our local gym. Please feel free to contact me if you're visiting. We are always happy to share what rock we have. For your stoke here is a video of a traverse that I established this season called the Epoch Traverse. Its located at the Tee Harbor Boulders on the Warm-up boulder. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more!